Japan: Week 3

3 - Kyoto

This week I realised, whilst counting through all the things I've gotten used to, all the things which have just slipped into my routine without having to get used to them at all. There are no conveyor belts at supermarkets - you just queue up with your basket. You don't even look for the smallest queue, they're so quick that there's no point moving from the one right in front of you. There are no buttons to press at pedestrian crossings, they're all timed. Buses have a fixed fare, you don't pay for how far you're going. It feels strange, stranger than the little things you do have to remind yourself of (taking off shoes...) to discover there are parts of living a completely foreign life which make more sense to your subconscious than the life you've lived for nineteen years.

It was another Bjork week. Quiet and peaceful. I read for research for my dissertation, I went to the gym because if there's really no frisbee for 4 months, the least I can do is come back totally ripped, I cooked.

Then, at three o'clock on Friday afternoon, I boarded a coach for Kyoto. It's Hanami, cherry blossom viewing, in Kyoto at the moment, and consequently one of the busiest times of the year for the city. During Spring, foreigners and Japanese alike will flock to each city as its native flower comes into bloom in turn. We decided to throw ourselves into the fray, and booked coaches and a room for Friday night. Saturday appears to be all booked up? Oh well, we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.

We reached Kyoto station, and decided it would be easiest just to get a taxi to the hostel first time around as it wasn't far away, and then we'd know how to walk to and from the station. Unfortunately, this was one of those times when the Japanese are so desperate to be helpful that they end up being quite the opposite. The taxi driver had no idea either where the hostel was, despite us having the full address written down in Japanese, or how to use his SatNav. Luckily you can just go up to anyone in uniform in Japan and they'll help you out. Consequently, we ended up walking another 40 minutes to the actual location of our hostel, which was about 5 minutes away from the station, in the opposite direction we had just come. Ah well, it was fresh air, and it was Kyoto.

We had a delicious dinner in a much fancier restaurant than we intended to eat at, but it was worth every penny as a one-off. We stayed for hours, talking and drinking. Eventually we decided to call it a night, as we wanted a full day of sight-seeing come the morning. It was another pleasant stay in a hostel - I've yet to find a poor one in Japan.

In the morning we headed straight for Kinkaku-Ji, the Golden Pavilion. My third visit to the temple, and I still find it difficult to take in the side of the pure gold building, floating in the middle of a lake. It was the first time the weather's been good too, and the gold leaf gleamed, and the reflections in the water were so vivid.

Next stop was Nijo Castle, with the Nightingale Floor as an ancient security device; the wooden floorboards sing like birds when they're stepped on. Again, the sunshine and the cherry blossom made walking around the gardens so beautiful, and I was glad I had the opportunity to visit these landmarks yet again.

The final sight-seeing destination of the day was Fushimi-Inari, with a huge shrine at the base and many trails winding their way up the side of a mountain, the paths covered all the way along with hundreds of bright orange torii. There are many paths to take and it would take a couple of hours if you were fit enough to march smartly up them all, but we just ventured up one as high as you could go, and were rewarded with a view of Kyoto. Along the way and at the end of each trail are more, smaller shrines, as well as many places to stop and buy a drink for the thirsty traveller. We also discovered that these torii are purchased, and are inscribed with family names and dates. Prices start at around £2,500 for the smallest, anyone interested...?

After the magnitude of steps it was time for dinner, so we headed to Gion, the Geisha district. The only place big enough to house our group was an all-you-can-eat restaurant, which had a cooking pot in the middle of the table in which you fry as many strips of beef and bowls of vegetables as you like. After we staggered out, we made our way to the karaoke we'd located on our food-hunt, how we'd decided to cross the bridge we'd now come to...

Astonishingly, we managed to find some songs we hadn't got through last mammoth karaoke session, and we also replayed a few favourites. We all collapsed at around 3 in the morning. At this particular karaoke, kicking-out time was 5 am, so, out into the wide world we went once again, after what mathematically should have been two hours sleep, but in reality was about 20 minutes.

In our early morning wanderings we watched a small group of policemen taking a jog (I kid you not), and made our way to a nearby shrine. We soon discovered that during hanami, our behaviour wasn't in the slightest bit bizarre. Another example of Japan working hard and playing hard, they set up mats under the sakura and relax for hours, start drinking early and carry on all night. Some groups were peacefully sleeping in sleeping bags, but others were still in full celebration mode, and were only too glad to invite us to the party.

Taken at 5.30 am

Taken at 6 am

So for a few hours we lolled around, taking photos of the beautiful scenery and making Japanese friends. We only had to wait until 8 am, and Starbucks would be open. After warming up a little, it was back into tourist mode. We went to Kiyomizu-dera, only a short walk away, and ambled around, feeling much more delicate than the day before.

The first Japanese child in history to be brave enough to want to be in a photo with gaijin

The rest of the time we had left in Kyoto was spent perusing the shops in Gion, and wondering whereabouts Geisha used to, and still might, live. By beautiful coincidence, a man told us that there were lots of people down a particular street because some Maiko, apprentice Geisha, would be making their debut appearances that day, and would be appearing just before we had to get the train back to Kyoto station.

Against the cherry blossom, this woman represents centuries' worth of Japanese culture. Beautiful, flawless, one could nevertheless sense her breathing a little heavily, faced with so many photographers, not to mention foreigners, frantically snapping away. I wondered if she worried about the attention of those like me. Would she think I wouldn't understand the difficulties she's gone through on a daily basis to be where she is now? Would she worry I wouldn't find her perfect, ignorant in my knowledge of the culture she epitomises? At one moment she looked straight into my eyes, and I'll never know if my utter respect and understanding of her lifestyle passed between us in those precious few seconds, but I hope it did.

If there's one moment I won't forget in all my time I'll be here, it'll be this one.

From Gion it was back to Kyoto station and the coach, back to nagoya and the underground, back to the bus, and a short walk to collapsing into bed. Who'd have thought I'd break my record of number of hours awake after just one short week? For those interested, it stands at 38 hours.

A couple of exciting things happening next week! See you then.

Yours,

Abby

There were a great many photos from this weekend, and I couldn't possibly post them all here. To see more: http://abbyinjapan.tumblr.com/

Japan: Week 2

2 - Settling in

This week reminds me of the first minute or so of Bjork's 'It's Oh So Quiet'. So peaceful, so relaxing, at a calm, laid-back pace. And then Saturday night/Sunday morning happened - A.K.A The Most Japanese Day I will Probably Have in Japan.

The week began with a welcome party for us held at the University where they provided astonishingly delicious food (given that we're students and and all), and a selection of performances from some of the clubs we might like to join.

As I've brought my clarinet all the way here, I'll be doing my utmost to make my way to Wind Orchestra rehearsals and keep up with their precision and enthusiasm.

I was struck yet again by how comprehensive are the efforts of the university to ensure we all fit in, feel included, and above all enjoy our stay here. In England there are individual teachers who will want to make sure you're enjoying life, but it does not seem to be a priority of the institution. Perhaps one of the reasons Japan is so successful that it's currently lowering the worth of the yen so that other countries can continue to do business with it, is that they understand the necessity of welcome distraction. Everyone knows that the brain works more effectively when it is given occasional breaks and stimulated in different ways, but how many nations so persuasively arrange and encourage your participation in such activities? Japanese people work hard, play hard, and consequently work even harder. There are so many things to learn here, and I haven't even begun lessons yet.

Speaking of working, I had a meeting with the head of my course on Thursday, so that he can let us know how our term is going to pan out. I will have 5 classes; Theory of Teaching English as a Foreign Language (here-on referred to as TEFL, I can't keep writing that out) Methodology of TEFL, Japanese Language, Phonetics, and Comparative Culture. All these classes will contain just the four of us who have come from Winchester University, as other foreign students here will be studying either Japanese language or Japanese Culture.

After a couple of weeks we will start observing English classes for foreign students, and a couple of weeks after that we will start teaching classes! All in addition to the five original classes. After all this was explained, my initial misgivings owing to the fact that we will not begin lessons until the 15th of April (!) were reduced. Clearly, I have a lot to get ahead with, and my free time once term starts will be minimal. Kyoto in full bloom is calling my name, as well as Osaka, and now I'll have time to do a little travelling before getting down to work.

This week also contained a visit to a very nearby shrine, who's name I'm afraid I never learnt. To reach it, you walk off the main road and climb a grassy, winding path onto a clearer pavement, winding its way uphill through woodland, and passing the occasional Japanese family grave along the way. When the ground levels out, you can choose either to explore the cemetery further, or climb the many steps leading to the shrine.

We chose the cemetery first, which is leafy and laid out with a gentle disorder, each group of headstones inhabiting their own little corner.

I couldn't walk through an English cemetery so calmly, and I think this shows a rare occasion where ignorance really is bliss. I've never even seen a picture of a Japanese grave yard. These slabs of stone fit perfectly into these hilly woods, and I felt only calm as I wandered among a place for the dead, my mind unencumbered by images supplied by film and television of dark forces lurking. It felt natural, a place where relatives believe their loved one's spirits would come, who wouldn't mind tourists educating themselves and paying their respects.

Back through the cemetery, and up the many steps to the shrine. I'll admit it was comforting next going to a place I did know about, and feeling as though I'm not completely at sea in this beautiful, foreign country. The water trough with the bamboo ladles is for purifying hands and mouth before prayer in the shrine, the lions guarding the entrance, the strings of cranes for peace, the folded strips of paper on a string containing hopes and prayers, and incense to sharpen and concentrate the mind. Yes, I thought, I know how to live here, and appreciate the difference a few thousand miles can make to the development of a culture.

The last peaceful day was Friday. My main activity of the day was to go to the (free!!) gym for an induction into how the machines work (and internally confirming that I will not be getting to know any of them except the treadmill). This also happened to be the Graduation of last year's NUFS students, meaning that they were all gathering in front of the uni in their beautiful kimono, and didn't at all mind being photographed.

This weekend was the longest of my life. Perhaps that's not entirely scientifically accurate, but it was the weekend when I was awake for more hours than I ever have been before. Saturday began with leaving I-House to catch a bus to the station, then catching a train and a subway train to central Nagoya, to walk a little distance to the impressive Nagoya Castle. Built in 1612, the castle was the biggest fortress in Japan at the time, to protect Tokyo from enemies advancing from the West of Japan. We had a wonderful volunteer tour guide who gave us a good insight into the history of the Castle; concise enough to ensure you both stayed interested and left wanting to know more.

From the Castle it was onto Osu, a district of Nagoya the students wanted to show us for its modern architecture and numerous shopping opportunities. We ate Udon Noodles for lunch, very welcome after a hard morning's climbing of stairs, and explored shops containing more items that I wished to purchase than I would be able to return to England to 50 suitcases. We also had a go at Purikura - those famous photo booths where you can digitally doodle all over your photos, which everyone wishes they would build in England.

We also made a quick stop at Sakae, where we found a Totoro shop, and Nagoya's newest Ferris Wheel located next to Japan's oldest Ferris Wheel. As you do.

Finally, after what had already been a long day, we returned to I-House. I napped, to prepare myself for what was to come. Karaoke, was what was to come. The best karaoke bars are in Sakae, and the trains stop fairly early, besides which, there is a curfew of 11 pm at I-House. You don't have to be in, but you won't be able to return to the building until 7 am. The result? Overnight stays at karaoke bars and catching the first train home in the morning.

This was for the most part an incredibly enjoyable experience. Paying double of an already reasonable price will gain you unlimited access to a drinks menu of both soft drinks and alcohol, which can help a group of friends who are going to be in an ultra-violet lit room for 7 hours.

Even if I didn't already enjoy letting stress go, singing wildly out of key and enjoying cheesy songs for the genius they secretly are, the fact you are taking part in so thoroughly a Japanese activity cannot be ignored. Karaoke is as much as a part of Japanese culture as a site like Nagoya Castle, and a perfect example of how Japanese people do in fact, let it all go and have a good time.

I astonished myself by not sleeping at all Saturday night, a feat I have never managed before, even in reaction to fast-approaching deadlines. Knowing that I would have absolutely nothing to do on Sunday (apart from blogging!) helped relax me and allow me to have as much fun as I wanted. The only downside to this party was that I'd forgotten how privileged I am to live in a country where smoking is illegal inside. It hadn't occurred to me just how much of a headache could be gained from second-hand smoke in a small room, but hey, for this experience I put up with it, and I'll be infinitely more grateful for a relatively smoke-free England on my return.

We left karaoke at about 5.30 am, and from there it's a blur of tubes, buses and McDonald's breakfasts (another first) at 7 am until I fell into bed at 8 and woke up this afternoon at 3. I find myself in the difficult position of being unable to explain how an experience I found so enjoyable I would be unwilling to repeat for several years, but there it is. Thus concluded the most Japanese weekend of my life so far, and I'll be very interested to see if anything can rival it in the time I have available.

I anticipate another calm week and ridiculous weekend, but for more information of course, you'll have to check back with me next Sunday!

Yours,

Abby

For my photo blog: http://abbyinjapan.tumblr.com/